What Are Ingrown Hairs and Why Do They Happen?

An ingrown hair occurs when a hair that has been cut or removed grows back into the skin rather than upward through the follicle opening. This triggers a localized inflammatory response, resulting in red, tender bumps — sometimes filled with pus — that can be painful and cosmetically frustrating.

People with curly or coarse hair are more prone to ingrowns because the curved shape of the follicle makes it easier for the hair to turn back on itself. However, ingrown hairs can affect anyone, regardless of hair type.

Common Causes by Hair Removal Method

  • Shaving: A blunt blade cuts hair at an angle, creating a sharp tip that can pierce the skin as it grows back. Shaving too close or against the grain worsens this.
  • Waxing: Hair broken off below the surface rather than pulled cleanly from the root can curl under the skin. Dead skin cells blocking follicle openings also contribute.
  • Laser/IPL: Less common, but laser-treated hairs that were not fully destroyed can break apart under the skin during shedding.
  • Epilating: Similar risks to waxing — hair snapped rather than cleanly removed can lead to ingrowns.

Prevention: Before Hair Removal

  1. Exfoliate 24–48 hours before treatment. Use a gentle physical scrub or a chemical exfoliant with glycolic acid or salicylic acid to remove dead skin cells that can trap hairs.
  2. Hydrate the skin. Well-moisturized skin allows hair to break the surface more easily.
  3. Use a sharp, clean razor. Replace disposable blades regularly — a dull blade drags and cuts unevenly.
  4. Shave in the direction of hair growth to reduce the sharp angle cut.

Prevention: After Hair Removal

  1. Exfoliate regularly — 2–3 times per week — to keep follicles clear. Use circular motions with a soft exfoliating mitt or a salicylic acid body wash.
  2. Moisturize daily. Dry skin creates a tougher barrier that makes it harder for hairs to emerge. Look for moisturizers with urea or glycerin.
  3. Avoid tight clothing immediately after hair removal, especially in the bikini and underarm areas. Friction can push hairs back into the follicle.
  4. Don't pick or squeeze. This increases inflammation and the risk of scarring or infection.
  5. Apply an ingrown hair serum. Products containing glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or tea tree oil help dissolve dead skin cells and reduce bacterial irritation.

Treating Existing Ingrown Hairs

If you already have ingrown hairs, here's how to address them safely:

  • Warm compress: Apply a warm, damp cloth for 5–10 minutes to soften the skin and encourage the hair to rise to the surface.
  • Gentle exfoliation: Once softened, lightly exfoliate over the area to help the hair break through.
  • Sterile tweezers: If the hair is visible just beneath the skin, a sterilized needle or fine-tipped tweezers can gently lift — not dig — the hair free.
  • Topical treatments: Salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can reduce inflammation and infection.

If an ingrown hair becomes severely inflamed, infected, or develops into a cyst, consult a dermatologist rather than attempting home treatment.

Long-Term Solution

Switching to laser hair removal or IPL reduces ingrown hair frequency dramatically, since follicles are weakened and hair regrows finer and less likely to curl under the skin. Many dermatologists recommend professional laser treatment specifically for patients who struggle chronically with ingrown hairs.